Wednesday, November 4, 2009
To Sell Now or Wait
Tuesday, November 3, 2009
Update: Why This Is Still A Buyers Market
Read highlights of this bill:
http://www.realtor.org/fedistrk.nsf/files/government_affairs_tax_credit_ext_chart_110409.pdf/$FILE/government_affairs_tax_credit_ext_chart_110409.pdf
No one expects further extension or expansion beyond that point.... so take advantage of the gift while you can!
Monday, October 19, 2009
A Short Sale, Anything But Short
Monday, October 5, 2009
Demystifying Credit Scores
Part 1: All Credit Scores Are Not Created Equal - now available
Part 2: How Inquiries Affect Your Credit Score - now available
Part 3: How Foreclosures and Short Sales Affect Your Credit Score - now available
Part 4: So What? - now available
Part 5: Rebuilding Your Credit - now available
These posts answer 90% of all the questions I get about credit scores. Hopefully, they will help you understand how your creditors are viewing your credit. Please keep in mind in the last 18 months, the credit scoring model has changed THREE TIMES. So, this is an ever evolving industry. However, the basic principles have remained constant for some time now.
If you're thinking of buying, I encourage you to start looking into your credit, but also to contact a mortgage lender who can further assist you. Credit reports are not the only thing that lenders consider, so beware. Do not spend every dollar you have to pay down existing debt... sometimes you'd be better off having some cash on hand. Let them help you look at the big picture. I actually suggest you start thinking about financing as much as 6 months to a year before you plan to buy. For a referral to a trusted lender, contact me today!
Sunday, October 4, 2009
Demystifying Credit Scores: Pt 5 Rebuilding Your Credit
So, your credit score needs a little work? Okay. Here are some tips on improving your credit score.
- Start by knowing what your credit score is. Go to http://www.myfico.com/ and checking your scores. You can no longer get your Experian score, but you can get those from TransUnion and Equifax. These are your base lines. For mortgages, it will be hard to get a loan if your score is less than 620, and quite honestly, you want it to be over 700 ideally. If it's over 800, you're done! Congratulations it probably can not get any higher, so don't sweat it.
- Next review full copies of your credit report from each of the agencies. (Experian, TransUnion and Equifax). You can get a free copy from many sites, including http://www.annualcreditreport.com/ and http://www.freecreditreport.com/.
- Challenge every negative piece of information on any of these reports.... even if it is accurate.
- Wait for responses. Do your best to argue why any derogatory information should be removed.
- Once you've gotten the reports corrected, look at what your most negative things are, like public records and collections. When were they? Most negative things fall off your credit report in seven years. Let's say that 6 years and 9 months ago a collection was placed on your account for $500. If you want to buy a house next year and are doing this credit repair process in preparation, the WORST thing you can do at this point is to pay it without an outside agreement. Why? Well, the reporting period is 7 years from the last date of recorded activity. If you pay it now, it stays on your credit report for another 7 years starting now.... if you leave it alone, it disappears from your report in six more months.
- Remember that, outside of public records and collections, it is your most recent activity that is most heavily weighted. Make sure you are paying as agreed on every active account. No exceptions.
- Pay down your balances as best you can. Part of your credit score is calculated by the balance of all of your accounts compared to the credit limits you have. If you have $10,000 of credit, but are only using $2,000 of it, that is rated favorably, as it is indicative of someone who has responsible spending habits.
- It is best to have a mix of types of accounts - Revolving credit (credit cards), and Installment loans (like student loans and car loans).
- If you are having trouble getting a credit card, get a secured credit card - put $500 in a bank and get a $500 credit card. Use it (otherwise it won't be rated) and then pay it off, regularly. In time, you will be able to have a credit increase and get unsecured credit lines. But, from a credit rating standpoint, secured accounts are rated exactly the same as unsecured accounts.
- After taking these actions, check your credit score again in six months. Then, send me an email and let me know how much your credit score improved!
Congratulations on caring enough to start putting yourself back on the right track toward a healthy credit rating. Remember, no matter what happened to ruin your credit, you can recover. Time heals all wounds, including credit score wounds.
Demystifying Credit Scores: Pt 4 So What?
In this final post of the series, I want to address the major question, "So What?"
Demystifying Credit Scores: Pt 3 How Foreclosures and Short Sales Affect Your Score
Short sales are slightly less damaging than a foreclosure to your credit score.... for about the first 12 months after its occurrence.
If you are paying as agreed up to the short sale, for that duration of time, the loan is rated PAID AS AGREED, which is good.
It is possible, sometimes, to stay current on your mortgage and to complete a short sale.
Once either the short sale or foreclosure is completed, both accounts are reported the same: PAID DEROGATORY, and therefore will affect your score the same from a numerical standpoint. Dave used the analogy that it doesn't matter really whether you ran off the cliff or walked off the cliff, the point is you still went over the cliff.
After the short sale or foreclosure, the major difference in how it will affect your score relates to the balance that shows as unpaid (since balances for outstanding credit are a big part of the scoring model). Short sales, as forgiven debt, will sometimes be reported with a zero balance. But, balances are only considered for 12 months. So, one year after either a short sale or a foreclosure, the rating and numerical impact are the same. Refer again to the jumping over the cliff analogy.
Foreclosures can also become public records (this varies state to state). From that standpoint, foreclosures can take a dramatically worse toll on your credit report than a short sale - as public records are weighted very heavily. Here is where it can REALLY matter.
Saturday, October 3, 2009
Demystifying Credit Scores: Pt 2 How Inquiries Affect Your Credit Score
Continuing our series of posts on "Demystifying Credit Scores", this posts explains how credit inquiries affect your credit score.
There is a lot of misinformation floating around regarding how inquiries affect your credit report, and I finally feel like I have a reliable answer!!
Demystifying Credit Scores: Pt 1 All Credit Scores Are Not Created Equal
They are typically your "Vantage Scores". Vantage Scores are rated on a scale of 501-990.
FICO scores are done based on the Fair Isaac scoring model, and are a range of 330-850. You can purchase these scores at http://www.myfico.com/ Most Creditors, including mortgage lenders, are basing their lending decisions on your FICO Score.
Sites like AnnualCreditReport.com ARE a good source for pulling and reviewing the detail of your credit report. You SHOULD review your credit report periodically to check for errors.
Since most creditors do report to all three reporting bureaus, I actually pull a report from one of the three reporting bureaus every four months. I often find errors, and when I do, I write letters to all three of the credit bureaus to advise them.
As a matter of practice, it is suggested that you challenge ANY negative information on your credit report, even if it is accurate. Many times, the creditors or their collection companies will be so overwhelmed they will fail to respond within the time frame allowed and the bureau will remove the negative information from your file.
Friday, October 2, 2009
Home Prices Will NOT Return to 2005 Levels
Remember, most homeowners who thought, in 2007, thought their 2005 values would have returned by now. It hasn't, and it's cost them money - a lot of money - over the past two years. They have seen their dreams shattered and finances ruined by trying to time the market. Don't make the same mistake.
Here's an example of someone who's in denial over market conditions - it's a bit humorous, but after reading this blog and watching the video, look in the mirror. You're not doing the same thing, are you?
http://therealestatewhisperer.blogspot.com/2009/08/in-economies-like-ours-its-hard-to-know.html
Thursday, September 10, 2009
I Need Your Help. My Home Was Foreclosed On....I Have 5 Days...
Thursday, September 3, 2009
The Long and Short of a Short Sale, Part 4
All real estate contracts have contingencies in them on both sides. A contingency is the "if" in these statements:
In a short sale situation, sellers should also have a contingency for "Third Party Approval" - meaning they need to get approval from their lender(s) to be able to sell the property, since the proceeds will not cover the mortgage. If the sellers can not obtain the approval, then they can terminate the contract without penalty.
To improve chances of a short sale, sellers want a contract that has no buyer contingencies.
If I am representing a seller:
PRICE: I want a contract price that represents at least full market value; and in general, I want the highest price possible to entice the bank to approve the sale, and also because in some cases, buyers are being asked to pay the deficit between the mortgage payoff and the proceeds of the sale. The higher the proceeds of the sale, the less my client would be liable for.
FINANCING: I will attempt to obtain a cash contract, with no inspection or appraisal contingencies for the buyer. If that is not possible, I will want a full loan commitment, with the only contingencies being seller contingencies.
DEPOSIT: I want a high earnest money deposit, and I want it to be deposited into the escrow account as in a normal contract.
SHORT SALE APPROVAL: I want the longest possible timeframe to get the short sale approved.
PROPERTY OWNER DOCUMENTS: Since this contingency can not be waived by the buyers, I want any POA documents delivered to the buyer early on, with an addendum that they will pay the cost to replace them if they terminate the contract and do not return them.
PRICE: I want a contract price that reflects no more than the market value in "as is" property condition...preferrably with a financial benefit to my client because they are having to deal with the uncertainties and frustrations of a short sale. (Generally, if the bank orders a BPO/Appraisal of their own, and the contract price is within 10% of the fair market value, then they will accept it; of course, I hope my buyer will be paying at least 10% less than fair market value).
DEADLINES: I want a full home inspection and financing and appraisal contingencies, and I don't want my buyer paying any of those "hard costs" (out of pocket) until we've gotten the approval from the seller's lender (which is the thing that takes the longest in this process).
DEPOSIT: I want the "consideration" for the contract to be in the form of a Note Payable, rather than actual funds, until the seller's bank has approved the sale. This is because EVEN if my buyer defaults, their money is still in their own pocket - and the seller will have to sue them to get the deposit. Most sellers in this situation will not take court action to obtain cash from a buyer that didn't buy the house. However, if my buyer DOES NOT default, but has made a hard money deposit into an escrow account, and the buyer choses to exercise a right of walking away from the contract under one of the contingencies, then my buyer may have to fight the seller - perhaps even in court - to get their money back.
SHORT SALE APPROVAL: I want a short timeframe to get the short sale approved, in an effort to increase the speed of each action on the other side of the transaction.
OUT CLAUSE: I want an addendum that says my buyer can serve a UNILATERAL notice to the seller that he is terminating the contract FOR ANY REASON, up until the time that the short sale approval is received. This is so that my buyer can continue looking for other homes while he waits for the approval on this short sale. That way, if it is not approved, the buyer didn't miss out on anything (interest rates, pricing, market supply) while he waited. (Please note this is not part of any standard addendum in our region... and many agents will wrongfully tell you it is implied. Again, your agent matters. Read what you sign - regardless of what your agent says, the written agreement dictates the enforceable terms.)
Balancing the two sides is where an experienced agent with good negotiation skills comes into play. But, sometimes you simply don't know how good your agent is until it is too late. So, in my next post, I will share examples of things I have seen, failures and successes. These examples will help you know how to balance your interests.
I invite you to read the earlier posts in this series. Start with this post: A Short Sale, Anything But Short. Then, stay tuned to The Real Estate Whisperer for important real estate news from the front lines...Get your news AS the market is changing!
Sunday, August 30, 2009
The Long and Short of a Short Sale, Part 3
A true hardship
If you had a true hardship which is impacting your ability to pay for your mortgage, and you provide evidence to back that up, banks have a strong reason to consider your request for a short sale.
Banking is big business and they are under a lot of scrutiny right now; policy (i.e. politics), and the perception thereof = credibility to their share holders and financial backers; and consequently impacts their bottom line. In other words, banks look better when they are helping people with a true sob story, a true hardship that any of us can imagine happening in our lives or the lives of others we know. So, yes, in some ways, banks are being judgemental about your situation. Don't let your pride get in the way when writing your hardship letter. Tell them why you need their help. They are more likely to give it to you.
You have no other reasonable alternatives
In your hardship letter, you should spell out what alternatives you have considered (and ruled out) and what still exist, and, do it with strength. It increases incentives to the bank for considering your request. For example, if they can show (and you remind them) that you attempted to get a loan modification but didn't qualify, then they know you've TRIED to find alternatives. If you've depleated savings and credit lines (and you demonstrate that), they realize you've TRIED to handle the problem on your own, but were unsuccessful. If you're considering bankruptsy, they realize you consider yourself destitute with few options.
Your letter should always state that you are looking for the best alternative for all involved, and you believe that is the short sale. A foreclosure is not good for you or the lender.
For some banks, if you continue to pay your mortgage payment, they will believe that some how, some way, you will continue to stay current; and therefore, they may not consider your request, or it may be prioritized very low in the stack of requests. Banks, too, go through a state of denial.
Lower numbers of approval layers = Higher chances of success
For every bank/lender involved, another approval is required. The more approvals required, the more the complicated and time consuming the process gets; and consequently, each approval required reduces the chance of success. If any ONE party denies the request, the short sale will not go through.
If you have only one lender and one loan, the process is fairly easy. If you have multiple loans with one bank, it's also a reasonable transaction to try to accomplish.
If there are two different lenders on two different loans, you must get approvals from both; and it gets tricky. For example, let's say you own a house worth $250,000 today, but you bought it in 2005 for $375,000 with what we called an 80/20 split - meaning you had one loan for 80% of the value ($300,000), and another loan for 20% of the value ($75,000). Again, if both loans are through the same bank, it's not too hard; but if there are two banks, they will argue over how the proceeds get split.
Timing
Some parts of "timing" you don't choose. You don't know the lenders internal climate, and what their current business policy is for dealing with short sales - and this changes often based on market and political influences; and it can impact your sale.
What you CAN choose is when to ask for professional help. Get your real estate agent involved before you have missed a payment. This gives your agent the most amount of time to help you examine your options and then to start the process moving along if short sale is the best strategy.
Make sure that once the ball starts rolling, everything happens as quickly as possibly. Have your financial package ready, so that once you have a ratified contract, you can submit the package to the bank immediately without delay.
Some people immediately reach out to a "professional" negotiator. Many of these negotiators are asking for very high (non-refundable) fees upfront, and additional success fees. I am not a fan of these companies, although some are reasonable and work WITH your real estate agent to assist you.
I see these companies as extensions of the real estate agent. Instead of hiring additional administrative assistants to handle all the paperwork, emails and phone calls, the agent is choosing to hire an outside company with specialized experience in the area of short sales. However, some agents are hiring these companies because they are intimidated by the process of negotiating with your bank. Any real estate agent afraid of negotiating is not an agent I would want to hire.
So, if a third party company is involved, do your research and make sure you understand their role and your agent's role. Usually, these companies require some fee upfront - if you have a complicated case, then a fee may be reasonable (not thousands of dollars). Any success fees, since they are working as an extension of the listing agent, should be incurred by that agent, and guarranteed by the owner (my opinion).
NOTE: Some states are not allowing agents to negotiate short sales on behalf of their clients; they are requiring attorneys and/or third party negotiators. In these cases, it makes sense that the agents would pass along those fees to the clients.
Your agent(s): The Real Estate Agent
To me, the most critical decision an owner makes during this process is what real estate agent to hire. Your agent will be guiding you through the process from start to finish. You want to make sure your agent knows how. Do they understand the process? Do they have good communication skills (written and spoken mastery of the English language)? Good follow up skills? Do you know what the process is and who will be doing what for you?
The right marketing and good price negotiation
You will need to demonstrate the marketing plan used to procure an offer. Walking across the street to the neighbor's house and asking what they are willing to pay for the house is not going to suffice. You must show that you listed the home, usually with a real estate agent who placed it in the multiple listing service (not all areas have these, believe it or not). You must show that you did all the typical stuff - internet advertising, signage, etc. and that you attempted to make the availability of the home known to the widest possible audience in an attempt to procure the best offer possible.
Well, here's what I'd do - I'd drop the asking price to $175K and wait a few days - maybe a week, to see if I can get that offer from anyone else. Hopefully, you'll get an offer at $200K, maybe $215K, and then you can ratify and send it to the bank. If not, I'd ratify the $175K offer and submit it. You can then show that you TRIED to get a better offer or multiple offers at that point, and you couldn't. It demonstrates that the price is not below, or at least not far below true market value.
The right buyer
Selecting a buyer who understands the short sale process is important. If the buyer MUST move within 60 days, and you haven't started the process with your bank, that is not going to work.
The right offer
If you're in a fairly active market, your agent should market your price agressively, but not ridiculously, in order to obtain a quick offer - hopefully many. The lesser contingencies the better. The buyer will want some protection in the contract - it is only reasonable. But, as the seller, negotiate as much as you can in your favor. Make sure the buyer understands - even if they do a home inspection - the property is being sold as is, and the homeowner will make no repairs (after all, this is a financial crisis, and the buyer is getting a great deal).
If you are "approvable" based on the bank criteria, the price is the make or break it point of the short sale contract. While everyone knows that short sales, from a buyers perspective, SHOULD be good deals, it can not be much below what the bank's appraisers show is fair market value for the home. If you sent in an offer of $100K on your $250K home, the banks generally won't accept it. Remember, most are taking public bail out funds, and almost all have public share holders or atleast multiple financial backers. Even if they WANT to, they can not take ridiculous offers... their financial backers would walk, the public would scream. It simply isn't possible. (Keep in mind here that I am not referencing a list price, but market value.)
When it falls apart
With so many variables, often sales fall apart on the buyer's side. Maybe the buyer can't wait any longer, or their financial situation changed, or you simply picked the wrong offer because the buyers agent can't manage her clients' expectations, or maybe the bank counters with a higher price and the buyer chooses not to accept it. Whatever the reasons, buyers often walk. But, the first contract is critical because it starts the ball rolling with the lender. If your contract falls apart, I discourage you from telling the bank this information, because they will stop their process. Just get a new contract; and try to collect the earnest money for your clients.
Maybe you had back up contracts, or maybe just other offers - call them back. Maybe they are still interested?
If you've gotten bank approval when the contract falls apart, getting the second offer should be easier - once you put the house back on the market, and you can show potential buyers the terms that the bank agreed to, it means most of the waiting is over. If you replace the contract quickly enough, perhaps you won't even need to get reapproval (depends on how the approval was issued by the lender). Even if you are required to get re-approval, try hard to match the terms and conditions and make the contract as strong as possible. From a buyer standpoint, putting an offer on an "approved" short sale takes much of the guessing and waiting out of the process, and makes your home a very attractive alternative.
STAY TUNED FOR MY NEXT POST WHICH WILL OUTLINE THE VARIOUS TERMS OF CONTRACTS AND CONSIDERATIONS ON BOTH SIDES OF THE TRANSACTION.
Of course, if you own a home in Northern Virginia, I hope you'll call ME first to see if I can assist you. Also, no matter where you are in the country, feel free to contact me. While I can not give real estate advise outside of Virginia, I can connect you with a proven professional in your area. I belong to many networks, including REO and short sale expert networks, and we have members throughout the country.
Tuesday, August 25, 2009
Who Can You Trust?
| The Daily Show With Jon Stewart | Mon - Thurs 11p / 10c | |||
| Home Crisis Investigation | ||||
| http://www.thedailyshow.com/ | ||||
| ||||
As for me, I always check out how they decorate their bathrooms before I decide if I trust them or not. What about you?
The Long and Short of a Short Sale, Part 2
In this post, I will talk about who should and should not consider a short sale; and WHEN they should take action.
Why consider a short sale? Anyone who thinks they may end up allowing a home to go into foreclosure should seriously consider this option.
- CREDIT: With a short sale, your credit is damaged, but not nearly as badly as it would be if the home went into foreclosure.
- LIVING SITUATION: With a short sale, you are not evicted (like you could be if your home was foreclosed), and you look like a better prospective tenant to future landlords if your credit shows a short sale, rather than a foreclosure and eviction, on your record.
- PRIDE: You are cutting your losses and controlling the damage....making the best of an otherwise uncomfortable situation. Your neighbors and co-workers probably already know you owe more than your house is worth - so do they... but you're showing them that you are the kind of person that works with everyone involved to find a satisfactory resolution; that you are responsible.
- SECURITY CLEARANCES/JOB REQUIREMENTS: Especially true in the Washington DC Market, many people have security clearances required for their jobs. In these cases, foreclosures can be very difficult to explain, and short sales are are considered much more favorably, especially when they are coupled with a true hardship (see below). Foreclosures can put your current or future job options in jeopardy.
- DEBT FORGIVENESS/AVOID BANKRUPTSY: In most cases, you can negotiate debt forgiveness as part of the package; and therefore, do not have to worry later about collection activities, which otherwise could force you into bankruptsy to protect the assets you do have.
Why should an owner NOT consider a short sale?
- NOT ENOUGH TIME/LENDER WON'T AGREE: If any of lenders advises the owner that there is not time before the foreclosure, or that for other reasons they will not work with the owner in a short sale process (this is increasingly rare, but it happens).
- TOO COSTLY: If the homeowner has so many layers of liens and mortgages against the property that professionals are telling you that it is not likely to be approved and/or they will only attempt it with a large, non refundable deposit or fee. (Small non-refundable fees are reasonable, especially if your case is a complicated one. A small fee is a couple hundred dollars - not thousands.)
- DON'T NEED TO: When the owner CAN continue to make payments as agreed for the duration of the loan; even if it is uncomfortable. Or, when the owner would prefer a loan modification and the lender has indicated a willingness to work with the owner for a loan modification.
A short sale should be the last alternative to a foreclosure, not a knee jerk reaction to falling real estate values and overleveraged homes. With each short sale request, the lender will require a "hardship letter". This is a letter that explains why you, as the homeowner, have a hardship and why they, as the lender, should work with you and forgive part of your debt.
Hardships include:
- Involuntary job loss or unexpected loss of substantial income that prevents you from making payments or from making the full payment.
- Involuntary change in family situation due to death, divorce or other unexpected changes, like becoming the Octo-mom.
- Involuntary relocation (i.e. military relocation).
- Medical situation/disability that either results in a decrease of income, and significant increase of expenses, or the need to move elsewhere, or a combination of these things.
- You could never afford the mortgage in the first place, and you can show that by the continual use of your savings (which is rapidly declining or depleated) and credit lines (which are rapidly increasing or maxed out) to pay the mortgage.
What is NOT a hardship:
- You pulled all the equity out of your home to purchase another piece of real estate which you still own, free and clear from any liens or mortgages. (Cure: sell that second property and pay down your current mortgage; or sell the primary property and take a mortgage on the second property to pay the deficit on the first property.)
- You like going out to dinner every night and shopping at the best stores and that makes it hard to pay your mortgage...besides mom said you can live with her for free.
- You don't really want to work anymore.
- The value of your property declined, like everyone else's, and you don't think you should have to suffer that loss.
While it is true that in some (non-recourse) states, like Nevada, you may still get a short sale approved even if you do not have a hardship.... most of the time, banks are looking for your sob story here. Give it to them.
When do you throw in the towel?
Going through this process is very difficult emotionally. Let's face it, when you started this journey, you had a very different outcome in mind. This was to be your home; or the investment that was going to solve your future financial woes. Now, those dreams are not being realized and you're suffering a very real financial loss and that goes hand and hand with emotional loss.... not to mention that this hardship is generally because of another hardship (like job loss or divorce). Given that, you are likely to go through all five stages of grief:
- Denial (we can do this);
- Anger (if the real estate agent/lender/spouse/child/etc. hadn't...fill in the blank.... I wouldn't be in this situation);
- Bargaining (maybe if we...);
- Depression (it's hopeless);
- Acceptance (OK, let's move on).
You should call the a real estate agent and perhaps an attorney or financial advisor when you are in the "bargaining" stage, assuming (at that time) that you are still current on your mortgage. That's when we can help you examine options. Talk to consultants that you trust, who have your best interest at heart and who are not charging you for their advice at this stage of the game. Be wary of their interests - if they get paid only if you do one thing, expect them to want you to do that one thing; especially if they are pushing you very hard rather than trying to help you. For example, respect a real estate agent who asks you if you've attempted to have your loan modified so you can stay in the home.
DEFINATELY call a real estate agent no later than when you realize you can not make the next mortgage payment. The further behind you are in your payments the harder it is to have a successful short sale, and you may have eliminated other options at that time, too.
******
In the next posts, we'll talk more about the selling side - about what the ingredients are for a successful short sale, and about about the role of the real estate agent, attorney or third party negotiator in the short sale process. Then, we'll talk about the buying side, and what risks buyers have and the countermeasures they should take to reduce risks. Stay tuned!
If you are wondering if you should consider a short sale, call me. I am happy to provide a free consultation any time.
Vicky Chrisner, Keller Williams Realty
Ofc: 703-669-3142
Email: VChrisner@KW.com
